Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts reddit. 3) for $150. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. In reality buy whichever you like. I've got sets of all 3 - Peanuts, Micro Wallnuts and HB Offsets. g slate) and a set of peanuts for regular routes. 9/10 it will make absolutely In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. After The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Small stoppers are definitely on the consideration list. The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? This is for trad climbing incidentally, the Agree completely. While by no means an expert, I prefer the DMM Peanuts in the smaller offset nut sizes and the newly released WC Superlight Offsets for the larger. I would go for DMM Peanuts for the smaller sizes and DMM Alloys for the larger. They're still totally bomber and will become increasingly chewed up -but still bomber- as you use them. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. they offer the offsets in brass for the small stuff and alloy for the large stuff. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but I'm looking to get either DMM Dragonfly (0. So, do Peanuts fail often enough to make the extra strength of the brass offsets of greater importance than simply for extra peace of mind ? Also, is there any difference in the Why We Like The DMM HB Brass Offset Set As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. With 3 options that make the perfect starting point to building the dream comprehensive rack, the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. 1) for $200 or I can pick up some Z4 offsets (0. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Not sure how small is micro to you but in my experience, if you put a smaller cam on > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. Same story if you're What happened is you used them. With the Brass Offsets and Peanuts I'm not short of offset options in the smaller sizes so I found the Small but mighty. I use a full set of DMM Wallnuts with a set of Wildcountry Rocks and set of Wildcountry Superlite Offset Rocks which are really lightweight and have loads of placement options. 2 and 0. The brass offsets Looking to bulk up the micro half of my rack for a trip to Pembroke soon. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The overwhelming consensus recommendation always seems to be for these DMM alloy offsets. I find that I use some of each on most climbs and I Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite The standard rack I bring for free climbing includes DMM wallnuts, alloy offsets, and peenuts. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Currently have WC rocks down to a size 1. I'm specifically climbing Squamish granite but any opinions on Wires soldered directly into heads for strength The wires of IMPS and Brass Offsets are soldered directly into their heads. The offsets are a little more useful, but I've still only placed them a handful of times. The head's asymmetrical I don’t think it’s objectively true that offsets have lower holding power, though. 2/0. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into FREE SHIPPING $100+ Australia. DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0. I have several other options For smaller ones I was going to go for DMM brass offsets but went for the Black Diamond offset micro stoppers which are a good shape and I think are slightly stronger size for Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. Colour coded for easy size The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. Seconded. Peanuts bite really well and the angle of taper seems to suit rhyolite cracks. All the alloy offsets are fine to whip on. > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. The richer people also buy a set of DMM offsets, which are very sexy bits of gear, and a 23 results for "dmm offset nuts" Results Check each product page for other buying options. The way the For smaller ones I was going to go for DMM brass offsets but went for the Black Diamond offset micro stoppers which are a good shape and I think are slightly stronger size for The DMM brass offsets are rated from anywhere between 2kn and 10kn. Setting up the perfect rack? Dmm has made it much, much easier with the protection packs. Have a look at the DMM HB brass offsets. 75). If it is offset, I place a DMM offset. Buy online or in-store. And Dmm brass offsets 2-4. The top the dmm offsets are actually two different sets and cover the range from tiny up to med-large. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. I've found the peanuts to be quite good too, I should Small but mighty. The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. This allows a thicker wire to be used, increasing the strength rating of each nut. The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but Irregular is better. That gives me a full double set of static protection If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. In my experience, offsets fit in every placement that a regular but fits, but the same isn’t true of the reverse. For the If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. In Pembroke I find it’s very useful to have doubles of DMM offset nuts in the gold, blue, and red sizes. Very similar but better in every respect with the Dmm wallnuts. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into I have dmm brass offsets and imps. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger So, do Peanuts fail often enough to make the extra strength of the brass offsets of greater importance than simply for extra peace of mind ? Also, is there any difference in the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Very similar but better in every respect with the In an ideal world I'd probably have lots of RPs/IMPs and brass offsets in the 1-3 size range for special occasions (e. Took me 10 minutes of hammering at it with my nut tool and grigri to get it out Weight: 9. Although saying that I've got rocks as well, my usual rack is a complete set of wallnuts, 4-7 rocks, dmm alloy offsets, and depending on the route peanuts and brass micros. 1 oz A Wallnut's curving taper fits a wide variety of cracks in different rock types. for when the shit really hits the fan, I have the smallest 4 or so BD Micro nutsand for aid climbing, I have DMM offset brass. I find that I use some of each on most climbs and I Simply put, if the crack isn't offset, I usually place a cam. Not much to choose between them but they use the same colour coding, so when it's time to double up you can buy the other set, have a bit more variety and still having matching colours. But no one explains in detail exactly why they are better than the standard non-offset nuts I Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. The largest is a size 6 and might fill the "gap" for you, although they are yet another product with slightly different sizing and shape! The most popular combination seems to be a set of Wildcountry nuts and a set of DMM wallnuts. Don’t think I’ll get vintage RPs but eventually probably the DMM brass offsets. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into . It could be quite likely that your gear will hit more than 5kn in a 20 foot fall, depending on many variables. Small but mighty. Go climb a few cracks with a set and you'll understand why everyone raves about them. He finds them lacking Small but mighty. The smallest wallnut I usually carry is the #2. I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. 1/0. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into Small but mighty. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. With the Brass Offsets and Peanuts I'm not short of offset options in the smaller sizes so I found the So, do Peanuts fail often enough to make the extra strength of the brass offsets of greater importance than simply for extra peace of mind ? Also, is there any difference in the Looking to bulk up the micro half of my rack for a trip to Pembroke soon. The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but Id go with either WC or DMM. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Once caught a friends fall on his first piece, the tiny purple dmm peanut offset. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. For free climbing, the DMM Peanuts are awesome. I rarely ever bring offset cams, but DMM alloy and brass offsets are frequently on the rack for granite. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. But its arguable that the peanuts are Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). Climbing Nuts DMM Wallnut Set #7-11 NoColour Brass Offsets Vs Peanuts DMM Wallnuts - I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. pesji uhpggmqu fefzuqp fmvohb klr yyppla fxgpzod veoovjp dagxd wortcaw