Gogarth climbing. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth.

Gogarth climbing. On the descent we saw a large number of climbers gearing up, and it Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. Gogarth North (2009) Ground-Up By Simon Panton Guidebook correction for this climb 484 users have this on their wishlist Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents The sea cliffs of Gogarth,situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. Rockfax Description A once great route that was well worth a look if The Strand and Park Lane/Doomsville were occupied. Mar 20, 2023 · Hunched conspiratorially around the old oak table, Tim Neill, Phil Dowthwaite, and I whispered over the Gogarth guidebook. This crag can have a wild feel on the wrong days. 4) 20m. Exciting climbing up this leads to a small but adequate stance. Pics + Vids Philip Jewel on T-Rex Added: Mon, 29 Jan 2024 16:07:14 GMT Unleashing Limitless Power: Jimmy Jewel's Total Control in Extreme Climbing Watch on Rockfax Description A reasonable line up through an impressively steep section of rock. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. This cliff has been seen by many as insignificant, but don’t be put off or get too excited all the major lines and less major ones have been climbed. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Big Pitches , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales To Do List , Gogarth hit-list , Crack Climbing Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents First Recorded Ascent Last Recorded Ascent The Hollow Man E8 5 2nd October 1986 29th July 2023 Hardback Thesaurus E8 3 15th May 1988 1st January 1990 Extinction E8 3 1st January 1991 1st June 1991 The Super Calabrese E8 1 16th October 1986 16th October 1986 Vital Statistix E8 1 Climb the chimney, and thread yourself through the hole with as much dignity as possible. Start below a pinnacle that marks the start of the ramp. ) Nick Bullock Published Mar 20, 2023 Apr 25, 2025 · Rob Matheson has repeated The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) on North Stack Wall, Gogarth - aged just 74. Bolts are not tolerated and the hundreds of routes, many affected by the tide, should not be underestimated. Rockfax Description An superb route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. 5K views 13 years ago May 13, 2009 · The sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. As is normally the case with the selected Rockfax guidebooks, the choice of what to include is based as much on the crag it So what is it like to climb T Rex, the famous Gogarth testpiece? Find out in this short film starring sea-cliff climbing aficionados Trevor Massiah and Ruth Taylor. May 13, 2009 · The sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. Donations to the fund are always welcome; if you wish to contribute click here. Move over to the left to belay below the steep final corner. Therefore I thought that removing bolts was normally considered justified following either a clean aid or free (trad/solo) ascent of a route. Go straight up the corner/groove to rejoin the original Scavenger small stance. Mar 3, 2020 · Remarkably Andrew returned to his great passion of rock climbing and here he revisits his favorite sea cliff venue, Gogarth near Holyhead in North Wales to attempt one of the great rock climbs in the UK called "A Dream of White Horses". Rockfax Description A great route that is one of the easier lines on Main Cliff, although the approach and climbing are committing and shouldn't be underestimated. These beautiful and atmospheric crags have been a key destination for each generation of climbers since they were first discovered in the mid 60s. There are a number of annual favourites such as the Alpine meet, the Scottish Islands meet, the Marsden to Edale (single and double!) and the Gogarth climbing meet. The Range is described North to South Treasure Island . And over the past May 13, 2023 · 6. In total the Gogarth South guidebook details over 630 routes including the famous cliffs of Mousetrap Zawn, Red Wall, Castell Helen and Yellow Wall. Phil pulled the cork from a third bottle of wine. Park the car at the cafe. Making Matheson’s ascent even more noteworthy is that he’s 74 years old. Climb up the pinnacle and step right onto a ledge. May 7, 2025 · Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks Description Gogarth North is the definitive guidebook covering the trad rock climbing on the sea cliffs of northern Gogarth. Start below a vague line of flakes running up to the corner of The Big Groove. A demanding pitch. This is steep and sustained, and requires a battle to reach the alcove at half-height. 3) 4a, 18m. Climb the groove, passing a bulge on its left. Follow the continuation groove to a sloping rampline that leads left to the corner and belay here below a chimney. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Sadly the route is usually now covered in lichen and the bottom section is loose and dusty. Bubbly Situation Blues E4 25. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy Description This is the definitive guidebook covering all the trad rock climbing in southern Gogarth. Climb the corner and continue up the slab to some spikes on the left at the top of the ramp. Alternatively climb pitch one of Gogarth and abseil down the far side to the platform This area of the crag suffers a little more from dampness on the initial pitches, but nowhere near as much as the neighbouring Dinosaur area. Description Gogarth North is the definitive guidebook covering the trad rock climbing on the sea cliffs of northern Gogarth. The lower section is tackled by the route Rubble, E7 which is well named! Start by abseiling down to belay just below the belay at the top of the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point. 2a) Scavenger Direct, HVS 5b, 31m. route finding, some dodgey pro, strong feelings of being pushed to the limit and, at times, really feeling scared and of course the outcome is never guaranteed. 55m, 2 pitches. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave. Climb Steep and Gogarth Area Routes 17 to 23 – Resolution to Falls Road. Video Still: Rob Matheson When John Redhead made the first ascent of The Bells, The Bells! on Gogarth’s North Stack Wall it was one of the most serious routes in the UK at the time. 1) 5a, 34m. Gain a crack up and The Gogarth North guidebook is a climbing guide to the glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey. My first ever sea cliff climb was A Dream of White Horses, which I did with Maurice Birkill and Sarah White in October 1979. Located on North Stack Wall at Gogarth, it was first ascended in 1980 by John Redhead. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. It is reasonably easy to access along a rather treacherous path, but its non-tidal nature makes it a rather forgiving venue. Aug 6, 2025 · 2) 5a, 20m. Climbing History Climbers Climbs Summits Lists Shuffle About Donate Sign In Search Aug 28, 2024 · Almost as long as my relationship with Gogarth, which - by coincidence - is precisely as long as my relationship with sea cliff climbing. Continue past the Emulator groove for 8m to the top of an open corner / recess at the edge of the platform and scramble down this for 8m with care and then continue traversing leftwards about 25m to the open corner formed by a huge pinnacle resting against the main cliff. climber Rob Matheson has climbed The Bells, The Bells!, a notoriously fearsome trad route graded E7 6b on North Stack Wall at Gogarth. The Gogarth North guidebook covers all the routes from around the North Stack lighthouse and Holyhead Mountain. The Gogarth South guidebook covers all the routes from around the South Stack lighthouse and to Rhoscolyn further along the south coast. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Aug 18, 2023 · Hi all - thinking of heading to Gogarth this weekend, so two questions to those in the know: 1. Providing an unparalleled range of exciting traditional routes in a beautiful and atmospheric location, the Gogarth North guide details over 300 new routes done on the various Anglesey sea cliffs since the last “Climbing calls are revised at Gogarth ‘breaking’ be a lot more common than taking in” From Ed Douglas’s glorious commentary to the film Gogarth. Up the wide crack in the corner to belay on top of the pinnacle. The Bells, The Bells! was the U. Focus is on single-pitch Extremes with big Gogarth feel, yet without the grip-factor experienced elsewhere on the Gogarth cliffs. K. All of the protection pulls except for one wire behind a wobbling spike. The main attraction is the wide crack in the upper right-hand side of the buttress. Despite the Big Boyz feel to the place there are several outstanding routes in the lower end of the extreme spectrum and even a couple easier than that. Even though the development of this cliff started only in the 1960's, its role as a bastion of British trad climbing is undeniable. Go on a diet for this one. Mar 8, 2017 · An ideal single pitch venue for beginners! Not! Despite its easy access, single pitch nature this wall has far too many ‘chop’ routes for its own good. 4b. These beautiful and atmospheric crags are famed for their adventurous climbs, loose rock and tidal cycles Feb 25, 2018 · The White Cliff – A book about the climbing at Gogarth, with a contribution by SMG Owner Mark Reeves A climber (in Blue) tackles the classic Resolution Direct on Gogarth Main Cliff a classic E2. Only the best guide to North Wales Climbs ever!!!! The longer 60m abseil into the base of Dream of White Horses Gogarth – North This is one of the main events at Gogarth, and consists of a sweep of rock that goes uninterupted for over one mile from the Upper Tier right to North Stack Wall. There are several well defined paths that wind up the slopes from the finishes of the more popular routes and it is worth trying to find these to avoid heather bashing. Jan 24, 2025 · North Wales Climbs North Wales Climbs spans the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. 1) 5a, 35m. This mini trip is set Climbing History Climbers Climbs Summits Lists Shuffle About Donate Sign In Search Nov 11, 2009 · Climbing at Gogarth is all about the experience, ie. I’m dropping through swift jerks of ripping gear. It is home to some of the most magical climbs in the area. Then follow the thin groove above to reach good ledges, and belay just to the left of the main crack-line. 6 days ago · Crag features A mixture of rock-types, not dissimilar to that of Gogarth South Stack. The very first climb on Gogarth. I’m trembling. Trend up and right against the grain of the rock to eventually arrive at UKC Logbook Description Varied in style and standard. Consideration of the guide’s weight leads me to a sad conclusion: this is likely to be the final comprehensive guidebook to Gogarth. Rockfax Description A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Summary: Gogarth is an incredible place. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that will live with you for a long time. Rockfax Description One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth - involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is marvellous. 24. The Rat Race E3 5c ** A brilliant beginners crag that should be a must for any novice climber wanting an ‘easy’ introducion to sea cliff climbing. These huge sea cliffs provide an unparalleled range of adventurous traditional multi-pitch climbing, in a beautiful and atmospheric location. Dec 15, 2017 · Whilst Gogarth is known for its adventurous routes it is also home to some lesser challenges. Mainly single pitch routes to 50 metres. Up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete. Or maybe the sheer quirkiness of watching the seals, kayakers and Irish ferries go by is enough to attract Gogarth -Main Cliff Gogarth Area One of the most impressive and important sea cliffs in the world! A huge adventure fest of partially tidal climbing, extending across Gogarth Bay. Perhaps this is because of the vast amount of climbing found there with a diversity of routes rarely encountered in a single area. Climbing History Climbers Climbs Summits Lists Shuffle About Donate Sign In Search. " (From 2010. Access Gogarth is located on the western edge of Holy Island which in turn is located just off the island of Anglesey in North Wales. Shelves full of climbing guidebooks and climbing magazines Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Exposed on pitch 5. The sea cliffs of Gogarth are situated on the western tip of Anglesey and provide an impressive range if exciting ‘trad’ routes - the guide describes 600 routes complimented by full colour photo-diagrams; there are extensive area maps and individual crag approach maps as well as a great Apr 26, 2025 · U. Two young climbers, Arnis Strapcans (16) and Robert Brown (17), had overcome the first three pitches without undue difficulty but had located their stance, off route, above and to the left of the normal stance, which Mar 15, 2016 · A Gogarth guide must be weight-conscious, capable of being carried with you while you climb, and this edition is slim enough. Start in a small niche to the left of the narrow path. 2. 5a. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno. Period Summer, although climbing is possible all year round. Ken Wilson writing in Mountain 27: In the North Stack area there was a serious accident on Spider's Web. The Cad is an E6 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. A selection of fine easier-grade climbs exist too. Gogarth provides an unparalleled range of exciting trad routes in a beautiful and atmospheric location. Nowhere else… The Upper Tier is something of the shallow end when it comes to adventure in Gogarth Bay. Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks UKC Logbook Description 1. For each Gogarth is world renowned for its adventure climbing, despite the fact it lies on the tip of a small country known for its rain, sheep and green hillsides. Whether it be a private rock climbing guiding or a lEad Climbing… Aug 28, 2024 · A team traversing under Gogarth Main Cliff towards Big Groove, with the Gogarth Pinnacle, the base of which is cut off at high tide, in the background When I reflect on the years I've been climbing, certain routes stand out. Classic routes like The Strand, Park Lane/Doomsville, Winking Crack, The Cruise and Energy Crisis make this a popular area. Logistics Campsites and B&B's on both Holy Island and Anglesey. Squeezed into the dark corner of the kitchen, I felt small. Climb up to the flakes and follow them Robert died aged just 17 while climbing at Gogarth with Arnis Strapcans. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. May 1, 2023 · Paul and I were heading along a rainy A55 on the way to Gogarth, because, as usual, it had been voted “Place most likely to yield some climbing”. Most of Main cliff can be Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks Yesterday 74-year-old British climber Rob Matheson made a rare repeat of 'The Bells, The Bells!', one of the most fearsome trad climbs in Great Britain. Most people flock to Castell Helen and the classic and relatively solid VS and HVS routes. 20m. 5b (can feel harder when greasy). Gogarth seemed like a great choice as it was a classic 5 pitch E1, with most of the pitches being easier before a final hard pitch. From the team that published the hugely popular North Wales Rock comes this new guide, Gogarth North. Tackle the leaning crack directly above the stance. 1) 5a, 30m. This section can be badly affected by swell from the ferry, so low tide recommended. 1) 5a, 40m. Dream of White horses is the absolute Gogarth Classic, the climbing is awesome, the positions are mind blowing and if you fancy it let us know and we will guide you up this 'must do before you die' route. Recommend me a campsite nearby, that isn't just set up for family Rockfax Description The original line that gets close to climbing the top section of the concrete chimney. The cold wind nips at me like a terrier. 128m, 3 pitches. No pics or vids yet. 1) 5a, 55m. Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer. Gogarth is a premier sea-cliff climbing destination in North Wales. Climbs 44 recorded climbs. , The best the UK has to offer Jul 31, 2025 · 62m, 3 pitches. Gogarth is an E1 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. Ideal for when you haven’t enough time to do another Last time I was at Gogarth, down on Yellow Walls, there were some sea-kayakers (I think a P-y-B group) taking pics of us climbing. Right? , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , May Trip Target List , Post Quarantine Blowout , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. On the approach the weather was lovely, a clear blue sky day with sun just starting to kiss the crag. The first time you abseil into one of its many cliffs, you are totally blown away by the size and shear atmosphere of the place. 48m. ’s first route grade E7 due to the limited and runout protection. Move up and right into a scoop, then traverse back left to a small Rock climbing on Gogarth in Wales, one of the best sea cliffs in Britain. Shelves full of climbing guidebooks and climbing magazines Aug 13, 2008 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Then I’m up, and the rain driving across the cliff top hits me hard, cold, and fresh. It is these along with many of the classic routes that we use on our climbing courses. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay. These beautiful and atmospheric crags have been a key destination for each generation of climbers since Gogarth rock climbing To the north of Snowdonia is the island of Anglesey, and situated on the western tip are the sea cliffs of Gogarth close to Holyhead. co. . May 1, 2025 · The Bells! The Bells! is an E7 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. Many routes are described in the Gogarth South guide. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. The Cad, The Bells! The Bells! and a lot more besides. Including famous cliffs such as Mousetrap Zawn, Red Wall, Castell Helen and Yellow Wall, the Gogarth South guide also showcases several less well known zawns. Warning: this route is only for the experienced choss-bothering, brave soles, with a delicate approach, with a penchant for loose and steep climbs in an intimidating setting! 7. Dec 15, 2017 · The South Stack Area of Gogarth has some of the least and most adventurous routes at Gogarth. Start on the right side of the large pinnacle at the right hand end of the main cliff. May 13, 2009 · The sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. uk Mia Axon on Rat Race E3 5c, Main Cliff, Gogarth photo: Graham Desroy All best models of wholesale Cheap Replica Watches UK on google can be find here. Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks The new stakes are high quality, industrial grade galvanised steel; some were provided by the BMC and some were provided by the North Wales Bolt Fund. Start at ledges 18m past the Gogarth pinnacle, just right of an arete and where the higher platform drops in height. Mar 20, 2023 · The climb has finally sucked all the alcohol from me. Carry on until you can move right to another ledge, just before the main groove gets too dirty. Discover the adventurous traditional multi-pitch rock climbing and sea cliff climbing at Gogarth on the island of Anglesey in North Wales There is a section of this cliff where 15 consecutive routes are E5 and above. 3 pitches. 1. Nov 8, 2005 · My limited understanding of climbing in the UK suggests it has always been based on the premise of improving the quality of ascents. Latest News . Where big and commiting lines sort the men from the boyz. Not only was the climbing insecure, the rock wasn’t beyond suspicion and the protection was both “extremely sparse and uninspiring”. Once more I move out from under the block, desperate to pull over as my strength ebbs to nothing. 3) 5a, 10m. We were reminiscing about the first time we’d made this now familiar commute in 1993 (August according to Paul’s notes in his guide) and done Gogarth, Dream and The Moon. In this short film by Nadir Khan, Tom Livingstone and friends sample the delights of some May 1, 2025 · The Bells! The Bells! is an E7 Trad climb at Gogarth in the United Kingdom. 43m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Very strong winds are forecast for Saturday, but from what I can see they're coming from the south/southwest. Does that mean conditions on the crags (Wen Zawn in particular) will be sheltered? Or would you avoid at all costs? 2. 1) 5c, 20m. Over 50 weekend or longer outdoor meets a year with a varied programme reflecting the diversity of Club activities. From Bangor take the A55 NW through Anglesey to Holyhead, then follow signs for South stack. The last Climbers’ Club guide was published in 1990. Whilst there are a couple of amicable lines that won’t kill you, there are some real frightners with marginal gear and sustained friable climbing. Climb the slabby Gogarth - Best Climbing in the World SnowdoniaMountaineer 7 subscribers 3. I was 17 years old, had been climbing less than a year and didn't have a clue. Mousetrap E2 - Gogarth: Gogarth is a world-renowned sea cliff destination, and the Joe Brown classic Mousetrap is a true gem. 2) 5a, 25m Jul 21, 2015 · Day 2: Gogarth, Main Cliff Due to my previous epic was very keen to get back onto Main Cliff. A new section of cliff has been developed at the northern end of The Range (Gogarth) by Martin Crook The glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey, provide an impressive range of exciting traditional routes. A fine route with varied and interesting climbing. The second ascent came years later onsight by Andy Pollitt. Jan 3, 2025 · A drama exploring traditional climbing ethics on the sea cliffs of Gogarth, North Wales aired on BBC Radio 4 yesterday. The Gogarth North guidebook is a climbing guide to the glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey. And for a select few, I remember considering, at the time, that these were literally the best routes I'd ever done. Mar 20, 2023 · Nick Bullock: The Trouble With Me "Exploding pieces of metal hit me like bullets. Quite committing with a difficult scramble descent to the base, well worth having a few grades "in hand" for a first visit! Main Cliff eventually turns into Easter Island Gully Area. Weekly Wednesday evening climbing meets summer and winter. The Gogarth South climbing guidebook covers the series of cliffs running southwards from Gogarth Bay and includes over 630 action packed routes. Tim and Phil towered above me, and a spiral staircase covered with hanging ivy towered over us all. Streaky Desroy on Ridge Route Diff, Slanting Buttress, Lliwedd photo: Neil Dyer Finding Perfect Swiss Replica Watches UK Online ‣ replica--watches. Easier climbing up the crack leads to Apr 29, 2025 · (E7 6b) marked. Although almost a stones through away is the infamous Red Walls with its left and righthand sections of loose and adventurous routes. Unleashing Limitless Power: Jimmy Jewel's Total Control in Extreme Climbing Watch on Jim Moran on Wall of Fossils Added: Sat, 20 Mar 2021 00:52:57 GMT Pics + Vids Philip Jewel on T-Rex Added: Mon, 29 Jan 2024 16:07:14 GMT Unleashing Limitless Power: Jimmy Jewel's Total Control in Extreme Climbing Watch on Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. . wasqhv xyiki llfees ibrgu qtnrwtyo igrmy agl hgz tzcdy qadnhy